OLDS ENGINEERING Marine Division
Olds Type "H" Marine Engines
Features and Specifications: 3-5 H.P. and 4-6 H.P.
Four cycle, Overhead Valves, self oiling, built-in Crank starting, replaceable wet sleeve ground finish bore, Detachable impulse magneto.
Crankshaft - Special hollow cast 1 5/8" diameter Journals,
1¾" diameter Crankpin
For further Enquiries, Contact Olds Engineering
The following notes are intended to assist you, the user, to obtain the best service from your engine. In general, the maintenance and care of your engine should be as in any other good four-cycle job. Here we mention a few points which do apply specifically to the 3-5 h.p., 4-6 h.p. "OLDS."
LUBRICATION: The life and endurance of any machine is probably most affected by its lubrication. We cannot stress too strongly that the service required from an oil used in small engines, particularly in open boats, is very severe. In recommending Castrol XL we sincerely believe we are naming an oil most suitable for the conditions encountered. Check oil level before attempting to start. Sump capacity is one quart. The oil level should not be raised above the flat on the dipstick. When adding a large quantity of oil, as when refilling after draining, the dipstick should be removed to allow the escape of air from the crankcase. It is a good policy, particularly with a new engine, to add a small quantity of oil, DAILY (about a teaspoonful) through the oil filler hole. At the same time the water pump should be oiled. It is necessary to only hand tighten the oil filler plug. In a new engine an upper cylinder lubricant should also be used with the fuel. The sump should be initially drained and refilled after approximately five hours running, and after that when necessary, depending on the condition and colour of oil. As a general guide the oil should be changed with every 12 gallons (approx.) of fuel used or every 40 to 50 hours running. A tray fitted under the engine can simplify the draining of the sump, and it will also protect the lower part of the crankcase from bilge water. Sump drain pumps are available for oil changing, these operate with the suction pipe fitted down through the dipstick hole. Enclosed cone clutches fitted to some models should be lubricated with a light oil or a mixture of oil and kerosene. The capacity is approximately one-third pint. Replaceable oil seals are fitted to the rear ends of both crank and cam shafts.
CARBURETTOR: Presence of fuel in the carburettor may be seen by the height of the float valve pin which protrudes through the cap of the float bowl. Starting when cold is made easy by depressing the float pin, thus flooding the carburettor. With mixture screw (numbered) opened about one-third of a turn and throttle slightly opened also, the engine should start readily. The mixture screw should be adjusted immediately to give the best running. In some cases the mixture screw is fitted with a lock-nut to prevent interference with this setting. The air valve spring adjusting screw will no doubt require adjustment at some time. This should be set so as to apply the very lightest spring pressure in holding the valve on its seat. Always fit a fuel filter trap in the line, especially where a fixed mixture setting is required. The height of the fuel tank above the carburettor should, if possible, not exceed more than 6" to 8". The use of super grade petrol is recommended.
TIMING: The camshaft in these engines is chain driven, and if for some reason the timing chain is removed, care should be taken
to maintain correct timing upon replacement. Firstly, the cylinder head
must be fitted, the camshaft in position and the tappets correctly
adjusted. Turn the crankshaft to top dead centre position, which is
indicated by the flywheel timing mark lining up with TDC (top dead centre) marked on the block casting. Now turn the camshaft in
its running direction until the front rocker arm just tightens on the
inlet valve. The chain can now be fitted and the timing checked. On top
dead centre the inlet valve should be just commencing to open and the exhaust valve closing slightly after this.
WATER-COOLING: The block casting is fitted with a light press fitting centrifugal cast wet type sleeve. This can be removed for complete waterjacket cleaning. The sleeve is held in position by the cylinder head bearing on its top, while the bottom end is shouldered and fitted with a copper asbestos ring. When replaced in the block, the sleeve can be revolved a quarter of a turn to help give even cylinder wear. A clean-out drain hole is also provided at the base of the jacket. The very efficient plunger pump which works at half engine speed should not require a scoop of any description to assist it. The outlet water is mixed with the exhaust gas in the bronze manifold. This item is designed to be fitted with1¼" rubber hose for a complete exhaust or as a connection between it and suitable pipe. Care should be taken to ensure that the exhaust system has ample fall to drain completely. It is good practice, when leaving the engine standing over a period, to bring it up to compression, thus closing both valves and sealing the cylinder. Always remember to drain water jacket before removing cylinder head.
SHAFT CONNECTION: Always be sure that the engine and propeller shaft are in correct alignment. Failure to do so will result
in loss of power and undue wear of shaft and bearings. The engine can be tilted to an angle of up to approximately 15
degrees. The propeller shaft coupling is arranged to serve as a flywheel puller. To
apply firstly remove the three screws attaching the flange of the coupling
to the flywheel and loosen the flywheel nut several turns; bring back the coupling into position when it should bear on the back
of the flywheel nut. When the screws are replaced and tightened evenly, removal should be made easy. The propeller shaft
need not be removed for this operation. To allow for any small error in alignment, a slight amount
of flexibility in the shaft coupling can be arranged in engines currently
in production. The three 3/8" screws attaching the flange to the
flywheel in earlier models have been replaced by double ended studs screwed tightly into the flywheel and fitted with self locking
nuts. The propeller shaft can be let bear on and transmit its thrust directly to the crankshaft, leaving the coupling approximately
1/16" clear of the flywheel face and with the securing nuts just clear
of the flange. With this arrangement the flange can work slightly on the studs and flywheel spigot. Care should be taken not to
install engine too far out of alignment as to do so will cause undue wear of the studs. The flywheel spigot and studs should be greased
on assembly. The coupling can be made rigid by tightening up completely with the propeller shaft just clear of the crankshaft as
in the earlier engines.
Wm. Olds & Sons Pty. Ltd.